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Viewing 20 posts - 361 through 380 (of 472 total)
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  • in reply to: 32 Model 54 Radiator Removal #406076

    Bill,

    Nice looking car. Are you going to get it running and drive it to California this year?

    Dave

    in reply to: Paint Question #405964

    My link to Home Depot had an extra space and wouldn’t work. Here is a corrected link:

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-LeadCheck-Instant-Lead-Test-Swabs-2-Pack-LC-2SDC6/203313743

    in reply to: Paint Question #405963

    Chester- If you’re having trouble getting to sleep, here is a link to U.S. lead laws.

    I did not see anything on automotive paint just residential.

    Dave

    http://www.epa.gov/lead/lead-laws-and-regulations

    in reply to: Paint Question #405962

    Hi Chester,

    3M makes lead test swabs available online that cost around $10. Home depot sells them. They are designed for home paint, but the product info says they work on any surface. Try it on your paint and if negative, I would then very lightly (carefully) sand your paint and then run the swab over it. From what I have seen on the web most older auto paint has some degree of lead in the pigments, red, orange and yellow being the worst.

    A web page by the Australian Govt. has some info: http://www.environment.gov.au/protection/chemicals-management/lead/lead-in-auto-paints

    Dave

    Try this:

    http:// http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-LeadCheck-Instant-Lead-Test-Swabs-2-Pack-LC-2SDC6/203313743

    in reply to: Bracket headlights and New York (City?) laws #405923

    After a little more looking, I found them. A great looking car. Have fun with it.

    Dave

    http://forums.aaca.org/topic/269013-1927-pierce-arrow-model-36-limo/

    in reply to: Bracket headlights and New York (City?) laws #405921

    Charles,

    Glad to hear you are thrilled by your Series 36. I’d love to see some photos. I tried to find the ones you mentioned on the AACA forum and was unsuccessful. If you are trying to post them here, make sure that they are not too big or they won’t go. Welcome to PAS from a fellow Series 36 (with fender headlights) owner.

    Dave

    in reply to: 1927 Series 80 Coach Body Color #405645

    Randy, Just info to pass on. Your car is a pretty color. -Dave

    in reply to: Brass Polish? #405641

    I use Wright’s Brass Creme. Simichrome also works well.

    in reply to: 1927 Series 80 Coach Body Color #405616

    Randy,

    If you make contact with the guy, have him check: http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/

    There is a section of Packard paint chips and formulas back to 1929.

    -Dave

    in reply to: Rotor #405578

    Ron,

    I have some info on setting the points in the Series 36 dual point, 12 wire distributor that I will e-mail to you (to the address you have listed in the roster) along with a photo of a Series 36 distributor to see if that in fact is what you have. The info I have says the points that fire the plugs over the exhaust valve should open 3-9 degrees prior to the set that fire the plugs over the intake valves. Dave

    in reply to: Holiday Cheer #405532

    Bob, you do seem to have an awfully big grin………

    Happy Holidays to all!

    in reply to: Holiday Cheer #405528

    Here’s a picture of our car coming through one of our local Redwoods.

    in reply to: Holiday Cheer #413265

    Charles,

    It is possible that the photos are too large. I usually resize mine to 800×600 pixels before uploading. If you have any kind of photo software it should have a resize function. If you don’t, a free download program is called FastStone Image Viewer. It is an image viewing and sorting program, but also has some basic editing functions. Resize is under the “Edit” tab. I hope this helps you, it would be great to see your car.

    Dave

    in reply to: Chrome plate or nickle plate #405455

    My bumpers are also nickel plated.

    It is strange what people can do to electrical systems.

    in reply to: Chrome plate or nickle plate #405452

    Chester,

    My ’28 Series 36 has Nickel plated trim. Some of it looked pretty dull when I bought the car, but after several polishings, it looks very good. I tried several different brands of metal polish and ended up using Mothers Aluminum Polish.

    Did you resolve your ignition switch problem?

    Dave

    in reply to: Primer cups needed #405372

    Wayne’s business is called CARS. Website is brassauto.com.

    in reply to: 1928 Wiring diagram for ignition switches #405367

    Chester,

    When I get home Monday I’ll see if I can get a decent picture of the back of my switch panel.

    in reply to: 1928 Wiring diagram for ignition switches #405314

    Sent.

    in reply to: 1928 Wiring diagram for ignition switches #405311

    You clicked on the download button on the left? It worked OK for me. Give me an e-mail address and I can e-mail it to you.

    If you get a chance more info on the car (body style etc) and a picture or two would be nice. Inquiring minds want to know. I have a ’28 Series 36, 7 pass touring.

    Dave

    in reply to: 1928 Wiring diagram for ignition switches #413237

    Chester,

    Welcome to the PAS.

    Go to the “Library” tab on the left, enter 1928 and Series 36 and a list of publications for your car will come up. There is a downloadable Series 36 Owners Manual that has the wiring diagram.

    It looks to me that the tab got broken off of the left switch and someone rigged up an alternate switch. The left switch should turn on the left ignition only, the center switch both sides and the right switch the right ignition.

    Dave

Viewing 20 posts - 361 through 380 (of 472 total)