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Ron,

Here are photos, front and back, of the switches on my 1928 Series 36. It would surprise me if this is what you have. The ign switches are the three on the left. My car has two coils, one distributor with 12 plug wires and a double tipped rotor.

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Ron,

Are we still talking about the P-A truck? It would probably help if you were specific about what the vehicle is. I can send you photos of the switches in my Series 36 Dual ign 6, but I doubt they are the same. It is a weird three pull switches (L, R, Both) mounted on a single brass strip.

Dave

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Ron,

I think I have a secondary wiring diagram off of a 6 cyl. Continental that has the same type of distributor, made by Delco. It is a dual ignition. One end of the rotor is offset by one contact in the dist. cap. The coils are different than yours. It is on a fire truck, although not a Seagrave. I am out of the country for another week. I’ll look for it when I get home. Dave

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Ron As I recall this is a Hercules, or something similar in a 30s Pierce-Arrow truck and not a Pierce 6?

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Aw shucks George. OK, I can’t help myself, I have to jump in. I don’t have a real computer and all of the information I have located on the subject of gear oils, so the details and links will have to wait until I get back to the U.S. The bottom line according to a couple of the big oil companies (I talked to some of their engineers) is that what we should use in our old gear boxes is “Compounded Gear Oil”. It specifically designed for worm drives and gear units that have brass or bronze parts. It is available in up to ISO 1500 weight (really thick, I have been using ISO 1000 for my differential and 680 for my transmission). At least Mobil and Phillips carry it. The downside is that it is only available in 5gal. or sometimes only 55 gallon drums.

There are a number of gear oil rating systems (at least four that I have come across) for gear oils. The most common are SAE and ISO. They are NOT the same. A modern 140(SAE) weight hypoid gear oil is approximately the same viscosity as a 600 weight compounded gear oil. Lastly, gear oils that are “EP” oils usually have additives that are corrosive to yellow metals (sulfer compounds). That’s what gives modern EP gear oils the strong smell.

What stared this for me was that I bought some Meropa 1500 for the differential on my Series 36. It is advertised by some old car vendors as safe for yellow metals. When I opened the bottle I immediately noticed the sulfer smell. I contacted Chevron, who makes Meropa, and was told by two different engineers that it was not safe with yellow metals and not appropriate for our needs. So, I am still hunting for more information on the subject, but at this point Compounded Gear Oil has been recommmended by the oil companies for our needs. Do a web search for compounded gear oil and you can get the product data sheet.

George if you have the link to the corrosion test info, perhaps you could post it, and if you have the viscosity comparison chart, that also. If not I will post it when I get home along with more detailed information. -Dave

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Good news Bill. Are you going to move cars from the storage units and the warehouse when the new buildings are up? That will be a nice setup by the pond.

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Bill,

We had a great time looking at your collections. Many thanks.

Dave and Donna

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Bill,

Nice looking car. Are you going to get it running and drive it to California this year?

Dave

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My link to Home Depot had an extra space and wouldn’t work. Here is a corrected link:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-LeadCheck-Instant-Lead-Test-Swabs-2-Pack-LC-2SDC6/203313743

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Chester- If you’re having trouble getting to sleep, here is a link to U.S. lead laws.

I did not see anything on automotive paint just residential.

Dave

http://www.epa.gov/lead/lead-laws-and-regulations

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Hi Chester,

3M makes lead test swabs available online that cost around $10. Home depot sells them. They are designed for home paint, but the product info says they work on any surface. Try it on your paint and if negative, I would then very lightly (carefully) sand your paint and then run the swab over it. From what I have seen on the web most older auto paint has some degree of lead in the pigments, red, orange and yellow being the worst.

A web page by the Australian Govt. has some info: http://www.environment.gov.au/protection/chemicals-management/lead/lead-in-auto-paints

Dave

Try this:

http:// http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-LeadCheck-Instant-Lead-Test-Swabs-2-Pack-LC-2SDC6/203313743

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After a little more looking, I found them. A great looking car. Have fun with it.

Dave

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/269013-1927-pierce-arrow-model-36-limo/

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Charles,

Glad to hear you are thrilled by your Series 36. I’d love to see some photos. I tried to find the ones you mentioned on the AACA forum and was unsuccessful. If you are trying to post them here, make sure that they are not too big or they won’t go. Welcome to PAS from a fellow Series 36 (with fender headlights) owner.

Dave

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Randy, Just info to pass on. Your car is a pretty color. -Dave

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I use Wright’s Brass Creme. Simichrome also works well.

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Randy,

If you make contact with the guy, have him check: http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/

There is a section of Packard paint chips and formulas back to 1929.

-Dave

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Ron,

I have some info on setting the points in the Series 36 dual point, 12 wire distributor that I will e-mail to you (to the address you have listed in the roster) along with a photo of a Series 36 distributor to see if that in fact is what you have. The info I have says the points that fire the plugs over the exhaust valve should open 3-9 degrees prior to the set that fire the plugs over the intake valves. Dave

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Bob, you do seem to have an awfully big grin………

Happy Holidays to all!

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Here’s a picture of our car coming through one of our local Redwoods.

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Charles,

It is possible that the photos are too large. I usually resize mine to 800×600 pixels before uploading. If you have any kind of photo software it should have a resize function. If you don’t, a free download program is called FastStone Image Viewer. It is an image viewing and sorting program, but also has some basic editing functions. Resize is under the “Edit” tab. I hope this helps you, it would be great to see your car.

Dave

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