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Hi Dave, I emailed you, Thursday 1-3 for me please…
I’m not sure I can attend, but that seems like a great week to have a tour…as mentioned, people working can just take off 4 days for the seek, and usually, while the 4th of July is an important day and holiday, it’s not necessarily a “stay at home” holiday.
I’d say schedule it! I’d love to go to it, we love San Francisco and the area around it has some beautiful scenery!
As my daughter in Boston would say, this is a wicked bad topic. Oh, wait, that means a good topic, so maybe not!
You’ll get a lot of opinions on this one.
There was/is a tool sold for spreading spring leafs, so that grease could be put between them. Many Pierce Arrows had burlap-wrapped springs, the burlap supposedly slathered in grease, then metal gaiters installed in sections over the burlap.
If you grease the leaf springs, make sure your shock absorbers are in tip-top condition. One function of a leaf spring is to dampen the bumps, using the friction between the leafs. A well greased spring will have greatly reduced dampening function.
Many people put Teflon tape (or other as you mention) between the cleaned and primed leafs.
So, as someone states on another old car forum, get your bag of popcorn and sit back and watch the show, I bet there are many opinions on this topic!
I agree, shaft drive bikes are expensive, the Pan American is a very special bike and some of the money is for that reason. A little patience and you can find a good shaft drive Pierce in the low four figures.
The chain drive one’s now on Ebay are very overpriced, but as you mention, one can ASK anything….
Greg, I’m sure you know, if an early bike is in reasonably good original condition, DON’T restore it, it’s worth more unrestored. If it’s rusty and worn out, restoring might make sense, but early bike collectors highly prize originality…
Eye’d love to comment, but the breaks on my car aren’t working, so it shutters when I hit the petal. The previous owner past, sew eye whish I could ask hem, butt that’s water over the damn.
Beautiful bike, and the seller is darned proud of it. Seller also has a tandem listed for about $3K more….
There was a very nice 1901 Pan American, shaft drive, all nickel plated, bike that sold at a Copake auction last year, in the $7K range. That bike (pictured) was well worth it…..
Just wish it got frequent flier miles! I just hope it doesn’t get epoxied to Greg’s garage floor!!
Beautiful car. Think it might be one I tried to buy a number of years ago, project out of California. I was on time contacting then owner, but hesitated, having seen no pictures, and car was across country. A day later I called to conclude the deal but it had been sold while I considered it.
If that’s it, glad it found a good home and someone to do it justice! Very nice!
Thanks so much, Stu….without your help I couldn’t have acquired the box, and thanks to Greg for transportation offer…I’ve been looking for one for a while, so a little delay is no problem! thanks dc
That would work! Thanks, Greg! I’ll email Stu now, appreciate all the help….dc
Thanks, Ed, as always…….
Try these guys, Then and Now parts, they provided me with a couple of great kits, including one for a ’37 Cord, so the Pierce shouldn’t be a problem…a great source of parts, didn’t check the Parts and Services to see if they’re there, but their website should be (see what I did with grammar, there?) http://then-now-auto.com/
That’s a very interesting body, even though he has it listed numerous times on Ebay (a strange tactic?). I don’t like people who constantly say “gee, if it were closer”, but I’m one of those people on this body…would love to fit it on the 1910 Hudson that I have that’s missing it’s fore-door roadster body, and it’s a 110 inch wheelbase so would fit. I can’t seem to sell the Hudson as-is, but this body would make it a real car!
I’d like to half sponsor the Silver Arrow one, at $150, will someone on the forum go in on the other half with me? Thanks David Coco
This will be an interesting discussion. My ’31 phaeton was restored in 1960, then later by me. In the 1960 restoration, the then owner followed original colors and patterns to a fault. In doing so, the firewall was painted main body color.
I picture a body, waiting for a frame, in the paint shop at PAMCC. Would they really tape off the firewall and paint it black? My personal opinion is no, but again, the guys with original cars will chime in here…
Greg, looking at it in that perspective, you’re correct, not a bargain at all…the four passenger roadster, Model 38, is quite a handsome car and still available I believe….
Closing bid on this lot was a little over $50K, can’t imagine it sold for that but it was listed as a no reserve auction I believe. Even with incorrect body, that would seem to be a bargain.
That’s a great looking car, I’d darn near trade my Cord for it, but not sure that’s enough!
There are sometimes numbers scribbled on upholstery tags, that were attached to seat spring assemblies. I have a few, I’ll see if it appears to be serial numbers that are on there.
Yes, aluminum not a good choice, but then again, they had no idea we’d still be using the cars 80 or more years later, they were just trying to stay in business!
I was wondering if you have the serial number for your car. It’s not the same as the engine number. Do you have it on a title perhaps?
For someone with a missing tag and no documentation, any number stamped on a repro plate would be a guess, based on roster numbers, correct?
