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This info is from my Emporium lead listing.
A long lost friend is producing aluminum cylinder heads for Series 80 / 81 cars. The price is $2,100.00. He also has heads for 8 & 12 cylinder Pierce-Arrow engines. If you have interest, contact him at: [email protected] or @ 585-943-6596.
NOTE: I purchased and received the Series 80 cylinder head and it looks quite excellent. Randy is a good guy and a new PAS Member with some very interesting Pierce-Arrow cars. He has a long history in the Collector Car hobby and having these heads made is a sideline for him.
Fay:
This a public addition to my prior kudos!
However, you still need to speak with somebody about a the likeness on the plaque, ’cause it just don’t look like you! 
I think this is an expression of value, even if it is not a Pierce-Arrow.
It takes a few minutes, but is worth it.
HI Arnold,
I just Googled REMFLEX and the third listing was about AVOID USING REMFLEX!
Not a ringing endorsement, eh?
Peter
Superb, is the best way to describe the Meet.
Thanks to David, Diana, Bill, Wilma and all of David’s “Staff,” as he called those wonderful folks.
It was more fun than the following film clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFv_PoZ2iP0
Make sure you watch it, as it is well worth the time!
That is how much fun we had in KAL-A-MA-ZOO!
Three Cheers for Greg & Ken! HIP, HIP, HURRAY; HIP, HIP, HURRAY; HIP, HIP, HURRAY!
Thanks to Greg and Ken for a wonderful weekend!
Henry,
You can still buy Larry and Jean some drinks!
You do a great job.
Peter
Gerat photo!
What are the chances of that happening?
WOW!
Bravo, Chris!!!
Now I want to go hunt one out!
Many thanks to the Arkansas and Louisiana crowd for putting on a great get away and meeting. Also thanks for putting up with the interlopers, especially we Yankees. IT was a tremendous gathering of tremendous people.
Keep Piercing,
Peter
Hi Randy,
I do not know of reproduction hub caps, as they show up on EBAY with some regularity (a pair now on EBAY), but I and a number of Series 80 friends had our respective machinists make reproduction / non-functional primer cups. These were not made in a production run, but as individuals to fill the gap for the one or two that were missing on our respective vehicles. I hope the info is helpful, because hunting down those primer cups will be a fool’s errand. They are as hard to find as the steering wheel horn button – I have never seen one for sale on EBAY.
Good luck,
Peter
Hello Randy,
Those Star lenses I mentioned being on ebay, the item number is: 360402277612.
Good luck,
Peter
Hello Randy,
I believe that there are a set of B&L Stars on ebay that will fit a Series 81.
If nothing else, there have been a few sets on ebay recently.
Good luck,
Peter
Hello Walter,
Regarding the trailer, any good trailer builder will want specific dimensions of the vehicles you will carry. They should get so specific as to want a ton of dimensions, as in, the distance from the bumper to the front edge of the front door, from the rear bumper to the back of the front door, etc. This is so they can make the trailer and position the tie downs and jump door exactly where you need them. I had an extra set of tie down hooks placed forward of what I needed for my Series 80. Extra dome light sets (three sets of two) are good as is a second spare tire and an extra roof vent. The winch should run off of the battery that connects to the electric jack to raise and lower the tongue (no hand cranking). The winch can be installed after the fact at a good savings. Flooring as Chris mentioned is a big deal, but most reputable trailers will give you at least a 5-year warranty on the wood floor. As usual, everything depends on how much you want to spend. $10k should get your a nice 24-ft enclosed trailer with a 7-1/2-foot interior height + extras, which is necessary for a Series 80 or three. If you want more, then you will spend more. You are out west, so you need to hunt there. I have a United Trailer, UTX, but they are an Indiana group and that is a long way, freight wise, from Washington state. Good luck, Peter
Jim,
You should contact Wayne Hancock for a reproduction gas gauge. They are not exact, but they will do the job and look pretty good. As for the Moto-Meter, be careful on ebay for those with the red fluid showing all the way up, as it is usually burnt off and they do not function. Don’t believe the sellers that tell you that you can shake the fluid down, as it will not work. A good seller of these items will tell you if it works. Many sellers say they do not know how to test them (like put the bottom in hot water, duh!). You will be able to snag a good one on ebay if you are patient.
If there are other things that you need, be in touch and I may be able to help.
Good luck,
Peter Williams
When Greg mentions the Ford Parts dealer for the transmission and rear axle oil, I believe he meant to say OLD Ford parts dealer (Model A), as in LeBaron Bonney and such. The 600w is dark, stinky, thick stuff, but that is what you want for this application and in the steering box.
For the differential use only GL-4 rated oil (SAE 140), not GL-5 or GL-6 as it is said to attack the bronze bushing of the differential gears (I believe that there is some debate on this matter).
Regarding the oil filter, do you have a firewall mounted filter canister? If so, FRAM makes a filter to fit (CH192PL)). IF not, then you are on your own to fit one.
Regarding oil capacity, Tom is correct in that it requires nine quarts, but a quart more does not hurt or maybe a pint or two of STP.
All of Paul’s suggestions are spot on and I wish that I had put the roofing felt under my pyramid aluminum.
Here is the second picture!
Best,
Peter Williams
Do you have the Owners manual? THe adjustments are listed there. Greg is correct on his comments, but if you need a copy of the pages (the pictures are helpful to some of us), see attached.
Best,
Peter Williams
To quote George Teebay: Transmission & Rear End Oil: P-A [the company] only provided owners with the push-type heavy-liquid-dispensing grease gun, called, ‘compressor, grease’ in the owner’s manual. Because of the frequency of required lube, they assumed that much of the routine lubrication would be done by owners. That heavy liquid was ‘Special Compound,’ which was their proprietary name for 600W.
I use 600W ONLY for the transmission and the steering box. (You should also use 600W for the Bowen auto-lube system.) I do NOT use the push-type gun for any of them–especially not for the steering box because you can still blow out seals with that. Heat a bottle in a pan of near-boiling water then pour using a small-aperture funnel. I’d prefer to use the 600W from a Model A Ford supplier for all 600W applications other than the transmission–but make sure you’re getting the dark, smelly, viscous 600W and not the clearer, thinner stuff some sell as 600W but which I think is just repackaged SAE 140.
Differential: They did not have hypoid-style gear oils in 1928 (but they were close to it at that time), which is STRONGLY PREFERRED these days for the differential. As far as I know, SAE 140 hypoid-style gear oil is about as heavy as hypoid oil as we can find nowadays–but be sure to USE ONLY GL-4 rated, not synthetic (GL-6) or the now-common GL-5 which is for limited-slip diffs.
It was a great meet and gave us an opportunity to know each other better. Many thanks to Marc and the delightful Ms. Deedee for their flowing hospitality. They are the epitome of Southern charm. Also kudos to Rick Horne and Elizabeth Enney for the tour of their garage. What a pleasant weekend with great weather, outstanding accommodations and fun people. Peter
