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I talked to Abbott today and he said current lead time on a set of gauges was a year. Plan appropriately.

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Doug,

There are wire drying sprays, which also proport to offer waterproofing. Might want to stick one in the tool kit after using Bill’s oven technique. My wife has become somewhat used to her oven and freezer becoming critical restoration tools.

Bill

http://www.amazon.com/Gunk-M1306-Wire-Dryer-oz/dp/B00200CBD2

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Here are the original seals installed. Note depth indicator. The project moves on, abet not as fast as Rick’s. Envy is a cruel master.

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Here is the empty axle. You need to drive in the first seal until it bottoms out on the step machined in the bore, then install the next one, 1″ below the axle housing flange.”

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Cleaning up a couple of issues, but first I wanted to thank everyone who participated in this project either with your physical or moral support, particularly Bob Jacobsen, or otherwise I would still have a non turning axle.

It took some searching, but George at Olcar Bearing came up with the 4 rear seals. Victor 49034. They are metal/felt. Also fit Studes, I think. You need to soak them in the oil you are using in the rear end and then install them with the flange up. (See pointer)

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Here is some info, from a “lesser”” car site. They basically keep dirt out and oil/grease in on leaf springs.”

http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2105

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They may be leather, or as Chris says metal. I attached a site for the leather ones. My 836 has metal ones.

http://starship.org/Bugsby/Adventures/2006/SeriousFreshening/Chassis/Gaiters/index.php

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Doug,

Here is a place to start. Good luck.

Bill

http://www.roadarch.com/showrooms/ca.html

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Great progress, Thanks for the update. Where can I get POM tissue.

Bill

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Tony,

I may have an extra if I can get it out of the handle. Does anyone know how to get a tumbler out of the handle? My normal techniques are as yet a failure. Any clues out there?

Bill

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My pleasure. Congrats on the find, that is really cool.

I will wave when I go past next week.

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I used to work for The Troxel Company who began making bicycle seats in the late 1800’s. At their peak the made 30,000 per day. They also invented the “banana” seat.

The photo of aTroxel seat below looks similar to your seat, only it is on a Harley.

http://www.caimag.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/20/classic-harley-jigsaw-puzzle-or-parts-donor/img_6987-1024x683.jpg

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BIN on the 36 is $64,750. My error.

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Rather colorful seller’s name on the 35.

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Try a hobby store and look for “hot fuel proof clear dope””.

“

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Forgot, look under the DMV info tab.

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Progress looks great.

Don’t forget, Monday is just a day of the week. Could be any week, in fact it could be any week, month or year. I think these restorers and some other people only have weekly calendars.

Remember patience is a virtue.

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John,

Did you check Restoration Supply?

Check page 10 for the clips and 11 for the ferrules.

Bill

http://www.restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf

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Heat the bearings to 230 degrees. Tighten the bolts in a 180 degree apart, 90 degree apart then 180. Kind of a Z. I had about .0015 clearance between the flange boss and the bearing so the bearing barely turned when under compression. Very non dramatic and no impact.

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Here is the bearing install setup. I used (2) 1 1/4″ pipe flanges and 1/2″” 6″” all thread bolts.”

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