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Best of luck to you Brian and thanks for recommending the PAS to the new owner.

John

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Ebay states the car is no longer available.

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This cars was recently sold on Ebay out of Wisconsin if I remember correctly.

It was posted for sale in the morning one day and sold before lunch….

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I bought a bunch of these nice pens at our Winter meet last week. They are old style great pens and not a hotel or marketing type, 3 month throw away.

Thanks Liz!

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Who is that guy blocking the front door at the auction house?

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Brian, I see a 23xxxx engine number-that’s correct for the car-nice!

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I’m looking forward to David’s article too.

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Excellent info Jim and Craig! Brian, the original used small rivets to fasten it in place.

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Hi Brian, the number is stamped on a pad that’s part of the cast iron block. The steel cover I’m aware of on that side of the block is the ‘water jacket cover’. It extends most of the length of the block in the horizontal and has many bolts holding it in place-it doesn’t block seeing the number stamped in the block. I bet if you look again and rub steel wool or stand paper at the location you described, it will begin to show.

Serial number tags are available through the CCCA for about $30. I’ve seen the same repro tag on Ebay for $150! Maybe someone on the board has a spare blank they can sell you.

All the best-John

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Brian, you have the right place for the serial number plate, but check the other side in the same spot too.

You’ve got the correct location to find the engine number-it might need a bit of scraping. It should start 23XXXX

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I agree with all expressions here-Curtiss, it was a pleasure spending time with you and learning the processes associated with Facebook-your presentation was very much appreciated! .

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Hi Bill, nice find-bravo!

My 1933 836 shroud is bolted to the radiator surround bracket. There is very little space to access the bolts between the shroud and the fender-if you could remove the shroud, the hood needs to come off as well.

My bet is the factory intended for the pair to come off together and disassembled away from the car.

Best of luck with the fine ride!

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Great story Don-welcome to the PAS!

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Great idea Curtiss, Facebook is great way to expand the PAS reach w/o cost.

Thanks for marshaling this!

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Tom, great to hear we will see you at the Summer meet-they are a great source of inspiration for those interested in purchasing a car or just chatting about and riding in our fine mark.

All the best to you! John

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Charles, happy to hear this new car brings you joy.

Welcome to the PAS!-John

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Hi Bob, we know your info on compatibility is right on. I was asking George to confirm we was making a piece unmodified/consistent with your interchangeable Timken plans. I hope to get his reply soon. If you hear back, please share.

Again, thanks for posting about this project!

John

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I have reached out to Mr Holman and asked him if he can confirm that his project will fit PA and the ratio he’s making.

He responded by email that he’s looking into the first question and will get back. I will post what I learn.

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This is a great lead if some has a bad worm gear and wants to preserve that original drive train, or doesn’t want to covert to the newer style 34 rear.

Thank you Robert!

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Likewise Curtiss – all the best to you and yours!

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