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That kind of money is grand larceny, and purposefully taking money with no intention to deliver the services is fraud. I used to be a manager of a county consumer affairs department here in the DC area, and faced more than a few of these unscrupulous creatures. Got my share of death threats as well. As this is an international issue, your friend may want to try your version of the FBI, Interpol, or you may want to contact the Texas Attorney General’s office. Texas may also have a state Consumer Affairs office.
Assuming you have some form of a contract and some correspondence, or at least records of phone calls to verify your story, someone should be able to put a little pressure on these guys to either do what they agreed to or refund the money. I will say that if these guys are as shoddy as they seem, they are generally very good at dealing with (read this as lying to) the law as well. There was a company in Texas a few years ago that marketed rebuilt or “new” first generation Mustangs that was found duplicating ID numbers or some such activity. They promised cars for delivery, then kept the deposits and never followed through with the cars. Wonder if these guys were part of that scam?
I’m confused. Right and left mean vertical alignment of the filaments to me. High and low means horizontal. Am I missing anything? Anyone have any pics?
Did you get snow tires with that? How does the heater work? How about taking us for a drive on the Cape this weekend? The weather is perfect for a leisurely drive… NOT! Seriously, is that somewhat close to Ford’s Washington blue? It is a beautiful (and elegant) color, dark side or not.
John,
We only live 40 or so miles apart. I can recommend a great ophthalmologist for you! In fact, he is operating on my eye in a couple of hours. It will be nice to be able to see again.
Ed and John Cislak as well as many others have helped me get parts for a ’29 Club Brougham that has been sleeping with a cracked block for almost 10 years. Keep checking back on this message board, there are dozens of folks with a wide range of experience in PA’s in particular but in all things related and unrelated to PA’s.
Anyone have a thermostat for a ’29? I just had the radiator done at David Coco’s recommended guy in Winchester (who is good by the way), but need a thermostat to complete the setup. It is one of the Pine Winterfront types. Still waiting for the engine rebuild to be completed…
One more thing. My car has a built in heater, but I have no idea how the heater hoses are hooked up. Does anyone have a picture or diagram to share?
The transmission in my Club Brougham is 6 weeks newer than this one (3/13/29 as I remember). It has black paint on the case, inspection plate, pedal assembly, etc. For you gurus, should the assembly be painted, or should it be natural?
Great points, Greg. This is why the owners manuals and the restoration books always recommend that you change the oil the last time it is hot before a long winter nap. That way all the contaminants are removed with the oil, and fresh oil is left in the crankcase and in the bearing journals. For boats, the outdrive fluid is changed for the same reasons Greg outlined above. If you want proof, just cut open a spin on type oil filter after a car has sat for a few years, or pour out the “fuel” after changing a fuel filter on a boat after a hundred hours of occasional use. It will make you sick. I like to use a magnetized drain plug, or leave a magnet in the bottom of the oil pan to make sure the filings don’t get sucked back up into the oil screen. Kind of like Jak’s water filter in a previous discussion. That was brilliant!
Does anyone have a picture of these? Bill, how about stainless? I know it is much harder, but at this gauge it shouldn’t be an issue. Also, how about powder coating in lieu of paint?
By the way, how far are you from the Big Chicken in Marietta? That’s pronounced MAY-retta by the locals, including my wife, who grew up there. Great greasy chicken if you like it!
To echo what David has said, and not just because we both are near tidal water here in Virginia, you want to use an etching primer on that frame and frame related hardware ASAP. If you want to see just how much moisture is in metal, try giving it a quick fan spray with a broad flame MAPP gas (like you would spraying paint out of a conventional spray gun) about 2-3 inches away from the part, and see how much moisture is removed with the heating process. Prior to spraying bare metal with an etching primer, I always clean the metal with a “Prep-sol” type product (Dupont product name) to remove wax and grease, then heat it with a hand held torch of MAPP gas to lower the moisture content, then spray it while it is still warm with the primer. If I am using only Rustoleum, this process helps provide a smoother final paint finish. I have suspensions on cars done 15 years ago and driven regularly with no paint issues, even here in salt heaven. Henry Ford was no idiot, he actually (supposedly) dipped his Model A frames and fenders in a paint bath. You don’t miss as much when the part is immersed in a preservative. The same holds true for powder coating, as long as the powder is applied generously to the part. Keep us up on the progress!
David, that engine may weigh more than 1000 lbs with the two intakes still attached. Be really careful, that is a LOT of weight. Use more than a couple of bolts!
James hit the nail on the head. My father-in-law and I have been looking at these for 10 years, and watched the progression of the designs. I had a ’66 Mustang roll on me using cheap ramps and jack stands, I would NEVER compromise on quality again. Buy the better unit or buy a lot of life insurance.
I built a 30 by 44 garage at our River house on the Northern Neck of Virginia 10 years ago with the intent to retire there and restore cars. Hopefully some day… Make the garage height at least 12 feet 6 inches to cover for the Packard and the Pierce. In designing the slab, I made sure there was a slight but positive slope from the back wall to the doors using 5 inches of 3500 to 4000 lb concrete with both wire mesh and fiberglass strands in the concrete. I then made an educated guess (this was 2003) as to where the posts would be (I assumed a two post lift then), and dug two holes approximately a yard square. Jak, for you that is a meter ! I then filled the hole with a lattice of #4 (half inch) rebar, and left four pieces sticking up through the top, with the top of the concrete at the bottom of the final grade of the slab. I then used 2 by 4’s as a perimeter, and poured the entire garage slab, leaving the lift base 4 inches low. The garage now has the wood around the perimeter with a plywood cover until the lift is installed. The lift manufacturer can provide a drawing showing the exact locations for the lift posts and the bolt holes. When you order the lift, you construct a metal plate with holes to accommodate the four rebars with studs (stainless is best) set to accommodate the posts, weld the plate to the rebar, fill the area flush with concrete to the height of the existing floor, and wait for the lift delivery. Concrete needs at least a week, and preferably longer to cure. The lift should fit perfectly on a very sound foundation for the cost of a couple of yards of concrete and some steel.
One thing we all seem to forget is the power requirements for these lifts. I would provide for a circuit large enough (and with the correct voltage class) to accommodate the largest lift you will need. You can use larger capacity wire than you need, not smaller. If your code allows, add a floor drain so you can wash salt off cars in the winter.
It would be nice to properly type my own name…
Bill Lyons sent me a cut sheet from Union Oil that had a really nice layout of all the lube points, types of lube, etc. for the ’37-38 cars. I am wondering if we could get the same or similar information for as many years as possible. The owners manual on my ’29 has a lot of info, this sheet Bill has is way more succinct. The other issue, and other marques are in a similar boat, is how to translate what was specified at the time into what we have available today.
George Teebay’s story on the differential lube is truly scary. I hope to get my engine back from the machine shop soon, and have some reservation as to which oil to use. I will probably use the oil Joe Gibbs has developed with zinc and other additives especially on start-up, then use a zinc rich oil going forward.
Hopefully the members (and the AACA) has enough data to help compile at least a first cut at a lube chart for all cars (and bikes too of we can), then we can refine/improve on it.
Bob
Craig has a great idea to develop a repository for this important information.
I would be happy to develop a spreadsheet by year/model/etc. if you brainiacs with the technical knowledge to compile the data would help. To keep from clogging this message board, it might be easier to contact me by email at [email protected]. Any and all suggestions on how to structure this data is welcome.
Bobb
Tony,
It shouldn’t do any harm. This type of spray is even used on sensitive electronic circuit boards with micro thin insulation and gold foil. Like everything, common sense is king.
Bob
It may be worth spraying it with a bit of electronic contact cleaner before you start it in the Spring. Before you put it away in the fall, you may want to do the same thing, and then cover the access or cooling slots in the generator with a plastic bag or something that will keep the dust away from the commutator and brushes. That would help keep the dust out of the generator during its winter hibernation…
I worked in a TV repair shop in the 70’s, and we spent a LOT of time and contact cleaner spray cleaning the contacts on the rotary tuners in TV’s of the era. Commutators are no different, they just collect more grease and dust.
David, I will give you a call when we stop shoveling… Bill, thanks for the info. I tried ACME’s web site, but it locked up. I did get their number, and will give them a call in the morning. They are in Brooklyn, NY. Thanks for the info on John Cislak’s parts availibility, Ed. The chain in the engine is decent, but I would prefer a new one if it is available. I will call John about the oil pump parts. It would stink to do a full rebuild and ruin the engine from a poor oil pump.
We are hoping to re-use the springs if possible as well. I have looked through all the literature I have, and can’t find a spec for a spring compression pressure at, say, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches. We will check them and see if they are consistent. 70-90 pounds seems like a good number for the modern (50’s and 60’s) stuff, but you never know with the older engines.
Jak, did that pump reach you down under yet? We here in the colonies always appreciate your posts!
Bob
I have seen it, it is very well done. You also need to see the weather protection David has for his Archer ornament. Mine needs the same, David!
This sold for $226.28 on ebay. Time to start cleaning out the garage attic.
Thanks David. The original jpg files are about 4mb taken with a Nikon 5100 camera. We might have a storage issue with the web site. Is there any way to get a folder on the site where we can upload and share pictures? There are a number of threads that have great information and pictures, most recently William Lyons’ topic on the drum puller, but the site forces us to “dumb down”” the picture quality. The issue is likely the cost of storage…”
Let’s try a picture now. Hub removed, not cleaned.
Greg,
Anyone with a German Shepherd, a Pierce AND a backhoe is King in my book. Man’s best friend, and two of the best toys in the universe make for a happy guy! Congrats.
James,
If that is your Pierce engine in the foreground, you may want to support the front ASAP. That’s a lot of weight on a few threads. I made the mistake of doing that with a lowly 312 from my ’56 Thunderbird, and it caused the rear cylinders to get out of round. The 312 only weighs in at 600 lbs or so. That straight 8 is almost twice that, and has a greater moment around the rear of that engine. Just a thought…
