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Funny you should mention this topic. I was talking with Karl Krouch a few months ago about this very topic. He told me to contact Bob Dhuly who he helped acquire all the tools for his 1929 Phaeton. Bob was kind enough to take a bunch of picture and email them to me. It appears I have to attached them one at a a time. Here goes…

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Ed, completely agree. We had made plans way back for that weekend not knowing how great this event was (now I know!) Also, after meeting and talking with David and Diana in Buffalo, I was really sorry we had the other plans but I could not figure out a way to get out of them (don’t think I didn’t try). I am definitely planning on attending next year.

Robert

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Unfortunately, I was not about to attend. I (and I presume others) would appreciate it if those that did attend would posted some pictures. Please share the fun

Robert

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In front of Vidliers 5 and 10

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Greycliff

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Paul,

I would like to get 5 from you.

Robert

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Ed, thanks for all your help and continued encouragement. I am methodically working through the running issues. There are only so many things it can be, we will check them one by one. I am confident we will get it sorted out. Life is full of many truly frustrating and serious issues, this is definitely not one of them. I am learning so much about my car and having a great time doing it! The PAS community is outstanding. I have been very lucky and enjoyed the cars I have had, but this has been one of the best automotive moves I have made.

Robert

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Problem solved!

And the winner is……Greg Long

Ed Minnie told me to check the lower radiator hose to be sure is was not collapsing. Funny how you don’t notice things until someone tells you to look at it. My lower radiator “hose” was not a hose but a pipe with very short pieces of hose connecting it to the radiator at one end and the water pump at the other. So that was not likely the cause.

Then I checked the torque on the cylinder head bolt. With my torque wrench set at 40 ft/lbs the nuts were tightening. Reading the article “A Tale of Two Heads, Cylinder heads that is by Chris Diekamn in the Featured article section, he refers to the PAS service bulletin 95-2 for the torque specifications. They listed them as 65-70 fl/lbs and showed the recommended order of torqueing the head bolts. I first torqued the bolts to 60ft/lbs. Drove the car for a short while (also working on trying to sort the car and get it to run smoothly, currently have a lot of back firing and lack of power, but that is for another topic on the forum), let it cool down, and then re-torqued the bolts to 70ft/lbs. I drove the car again for another short trip and checked the torque on all the bolts. The coolant level did not change. Today I went for a longer drive, about 45 minutes and when I checked the level of the coolant it was about the same as yesterday.

So, one problem solved! Thanks all for your comments. Now I will decide on anti-freeze/water/anticorrosive additive.

Robert

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Greg – Thanks, I will put check for leaks in the exhaust system on my “to do”” list.

Robert”

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Ed, I completely agree! I am a firm believer in “They were meant to be driven”” and driving a classic car is a whole new experience for me and an absolute hoot! I can’t get enough of it “

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Thanks to all of you for the excellent ideas and suggestions. I am having a great time working on my car and I know with patience and perseverance, I will get this car sorted and tuned in.

I now have several very good suggestions to approach the coolant loss issue and I will test each one at a time. I know I will eventually figure it out and learn a lot along the way.

I feel like I am ~80% there with regards to how the car runs after adjusting the timing. While the car is running significantly better, I am now having some intermittent back firing issues which seem to occur during deceleration but again I will work through these to get to a 95%+ smooth running and reliable car and have fun on the way.

This is a great group and I appreciate all your help and suggestions. I look forward to meeting many of you in Buffalo this summer.

Robert

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Greg,

Thank you for all the excellent suggestions. To my knowledge, it was initially a mixture of coolant and water. I have been adding distilled water to replace the loss. Once the issue is corrected, I will consider the options you mentioned.

By the way, what are the torque spec’s and order pattern for torquing the head bolts?

Robert

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William – I have not notice any obvious water in the oil, but I have not driven it much while I have been sorting things out. Now that I am more focused on this issue, I will check again tonight looking specifically for water in the oil.

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Thanks for the quick replies.

Roger – The compression/leak down was next on my list.

William – I have not gotten out of the car to carefully examine the exhaust (I have been focused on driving and working out some engine running issues. At the moment all I can say is that I did not notice any obvious white smoke in the rear view mirror as I drove the car. I will now specifically look at the exhaust to check this.

What is considered “normal’ coolant consumption?”

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Peter,

Where can I get a copy of the Pierce-Arrow wiring and Tune-Up Guide (1913 – 1938) ? I have a copy of the parts catalog for my year car.

Robert

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Ed,

That is an impressive find. You are quite the sleuth.

Robert

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“Anyone who wishes to purchase an open Pierce Arrow car would do good for himself to get an expert to inspect all aspects of the automobile.””

I concur with Ed “

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This is a track race bike as opposed to a road race bike. All track bikes are stripped down to the bare minimum: no brakes, no gears, no water bottles, no free wheeling ratchet system in the rear hub, etc. As mentioned above, and true of all track bikes, if you stop peddling, the rear wheel stops rotating! In addition, many track racers had their shoes bolted to the pedals so there was no chance of ones feet slipping off. The down side was that if you fell down, you could not pull your feet out to stop your fall. These types of bikes are raced on indoor tracks.

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