[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Leon,

The Carburetor Shop offers a kit for a U4.I have had no dealings

with this outfit.573 392 7378.Open 9-4 Mon.-Wed.,Central time.

I bet the Pierce-Arrow Society Service Bulletin past issues could

help.Another member will have to turn you on to the proper issue and

tell you how to access them.

If that falls through,general repair manuals like Dykes,etc. often

have carb details.The Horseless Carriage Foundation,Inc.library may

help(619-464-0301).The Harrah Collection library(775-333-9300).The

AACA has a library.

Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I have a Model A.They are not supposed to vapor-lock.Mine does.For

years,a good running A was fine mannered in the morning and prone to

die around 3PM on hot days.I applied various aluminum foil,clothes pins

and other vulgar remedies with some success,but the problem would return.

On Rodney Flornoy’s Tour I met a fellow A owner with the same problems.

He had applied space age tech around the gas line.As we were making

comparisons I touched my carb.It was very hot.I believe the gas was

boiling inside it.I’m not sure what the remedy is.

I believe that you are vapor-locking.Your gas line may be too close

to a heat source(gas line routing in past practice,may be too close for modern fuel).Use a heat gun that tells how many degrees an object is.I bet

your carb is trying to break it’s petroleum habit and get hooked on natural gas!I’ve been told that modern gasoline will turn into a

gaseous form at 76 degrees.I tried running a little diesel in my A,but

it didn’t change matters.Any other additives?

Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I’m up to speed on mufflers for my early Pierce,but am confused about

’30’s exhaust systems.Weren’t they tuned by length to remove sound and

back pressure?Did the mufflers get made without”guts””.Shouldn’t we be

very concerned about replacing our exhaust system with as close a

replacement as we can find?Where do we go to inform ourselves about

what is right on the car.Is there any outfit that will do an exact

replica.Will I lose performance if I just go to a muffler shop and

go for the longest 2 or 3 mufflers that fit(that probably have

backpressure)?

Tony Costa”

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I know that tire flaps(a rubber donut that fits between the wheel

and inner tube)are a necessity on earlier autos.Are they available and

commonly used on classic cars?Flaps and gobs of tire talc would go a long

way to prevent inner tube failure!A 5600 lb. car might exert some negative

influence on inner tube flexing(whatever that is).

Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

A cool cave,Mississippi riverboat ride and world class art collection

visit,should be considered as necessary,when planning future annual

meets.Thanks to all who paid attention to all the details that made

this meet so successful and enjoyable.

Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bill,

I would like a set of 8 pusher bars,that I would pick up from

you at the P.A. Meet in Minn.

Thanks,Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bob,

I would like to pick up a set for one car(4 clips) at The P.A. Meet

in Rochester if you get this message in time.

Thanks,Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bob,

Thank you for your response.By cut-rate,I wasn’t demeaning the 836A

quality.It’s the smaller cube motor,the solid lifters,the lonely single

tail-light,the lack of dual sidemounts,and the most degrading….the

absence of a nude archer to guide my way.Even the tierod ends don’t

swap.

I believe I need the clips.I await your posting.

Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi,

My cut-rate “34 836A is lacking this part and looks perfectly

normal.Can anyone inform me as to whether it came with these trim

corners?

Thanks,Tony

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Dear Rodger,

I have babbit that a mechanic characterized as original,in my 1912

P.A.It’s not delicate stuff.My 1915 Overland 6 came with inserts from

the factory(Continental 7H).When I had it rebuilt,I was handed a box of

inserts.He had babbited to the rod.It’s still alive.

The point is: early cars had cranks that whipped around a great

deal.The babbit was softer then and adapted to the abuse.Todays cranks

aren’t allowed flex like the earlier cranks,allowing the babbit to

be thinner and transfer the heat generated at high revs.The problem

develops when you put inserts on a whipping crank.The inserts have

babbit measured in the thousandths and can’t take much flex.The factory

babbit layed on with a trowel(just kidding).

The P.A. eight has 9 mains,so is probably stiff enough to go both ways.

If Overland (Continental built to Overland specs)engineers made use of

inserts in 1915,wouldn’t P.A. use this technology if it was the best?

When did P.A. first use inserts?

I know,T Ford go-fast people love inserts.But,they invariably use a

stiffer crank(Model A)and add pressure oil feed to make them live.

Anthony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hemmings is a good source for ignition parts.Check out the services

offered section,under distributors.March had 6 entries.2 specifically

noted they dealt in caps.The others remanufacture and tune distributors

and may suggest sources that will have the part you need.Our parts and

services section connected to this site is usually very helpful.To

be able to use this resource is worth the Society dues.I don’t know

of any other old car club with such extensive,organized data that

will give you a parts number and a current source where it is

available.

I’ve been looking for a bracket that the top rests on,for my Model A

Ford Phaeton.None of the various Parts House catalogs list it.After

8 years,a fellow owner gave me a source.My P.A.s don’t wait that long.

Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Rodger,

It looks like you make expensive trips!Your search for headlight

parts should start in the Society’s Parts and Services Site.I have

had luck with Blonder-Murray Reproductions and Don Axelrod.Their

contact information is located on the site.

I know of no other club that has made it so organized and convenient

to find impossible rare parts.These autos were made in low numbers and

not supported by much of an aftermarket supply.Prepare to be patient

and dig deep in your wallet.Welcome,and good luck.

Tony

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Brooks Brierley’s “There is no Mistaking A Pierce-Arrow” and

“Auburn,REO,Franklin,and Pierce-Arrow Versus Cadillac,Chrysler,

Lincoln and Packard”,might be nice to have.Also,”Magic Motors

1930″ gives state by state P.A. registrations,1930 to 1936 and

some nice P.A. pictures,though it covers most of the luxury

cars of the thirties.

Tony Costa

Westwood,Cal.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Vintage Reproduction Attire & Custom Embroidery.Clothing made for you from stock designs or custom.Seaming Perfection-760-741-9033.1344 11th Ave.,Escondido,Ca. 92029.WWW.SeamingPerfection.com or [email protected]

This is an ad in the Restoration Supply Company catalog.Good Luck!

Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

This car may have old plastic based replacement lenses that degrade

after many years.The silvered reflector may be tarnished and a polish

job could remedy it(or needs a replating).It may be cheap and easy to

remedy or if you need glass lenses,it’s expensive if you’re lucky to

find them(I have 7 mos.,plus enough to purchase a’60s Rambler into

replacing the yellowed lenses on my ’35.I am still in need of an

auxillary glass lense).

Tony

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

You’ll be sorry!My 1934 836A(5,000 lb. land yacht)out-stops my

1937 Studebaker State President(4,000 lb Pierce-Arrow impersonator),

by a mile.The Studebaker,a wonderful driving car(independent front

suspension based on their Indy race car,stock overdrive,first year

tubular shocks(like modern ones),variable -ratio steering for easier

parking and a 90+ top speed(a ’39 Cad I had at 16 topped out at 82mph),

has hydraulic brakes.They were completely gone through about 6 years

ago at great expense.I’m always fighting moisture in the lines and a

proper adjustment.The Pierce hasn’t been worked on for a decade or two.

Works fine.I also have a ’35 that’s heavier and it brakes similar to

the ’34.With mechanicals I always have brakes even if something goes

wrong.

Tony

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Clay,

I purchased a driver condition 1935 P.A 845 5 pass. sedan 9 mos. ago.

I believe it’s the only one on the West Coast(2 Club Sedans out here).

I payed about the same as my A Ford Phaeton is worth.I payed $8000 less

than my 1934 Hupmobile Aerodynamic hotrod cost me(oddball stuff needs

loving too!).The price I payed may not be entry level to this hobby,but

when I go to Hot August Nites,very few have less invested in their cars

than I do,and a substantial number have more in their paint job than I

payed for the whole car.

My car was state of the art when it was new.No better quality car was

available.A woman could drive it without pulling shoulder muscles and

fatigue.It was a rare car when it was new,but easily recognized by the

general public.There is no American Sedan today with P.A class and is

offered at a comparable price(6 Xs a $24,000 Ford equals $144,000).

An average working guy could afford the 1925 P.A. 80 2 Dr. Sedan for

$18,000(if he had an understanding wife,few kids,didn’t smoke or drink),

that I know of.I’m amazed at how low P.A.s go for,even the rare and

“desireable” ones.

The nice part about P.A.s is the knowledgeable bunch of owners and the

Society(never thought I could belong to one)that makes it possible to

care and feed your P.A.s and usher them into the future.You do not need

a car to have fun with this group.They will happily share their rides

with you.Good Luck in your search.I believe I know where an A trailer

is,but have been afraid of approaching the owner.

Tony Costa

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Pierce-Arrows are often tough to appraise unless they are a model that

turns over often.David W. Coco’s advice about finding a car that is in

the best condition that you can afford and securing it,will keep many out

mental health facilities.On valuing the ’35.The Society knows of about 13

in various states of condition.About 875 8’s and 12’s were produced that

year(17.5 for each state if there was equal distribution).As this model

was low on the pecking order,values after restoration will probably not

recoup the investment.No.1 and 2. condition remaining cars may be counted

on one hand.My handy NADA Dec. 2008 Guide values one low at $30,100.AVG

at $45,900,and high at $66,600.Though there have been 3 that have

appeared on the market in the last year(2 sold),what are the odds of any

more coming up for sale in the near future (and in Coco advice condition)

?

Tony Costa

(and in Coco advice condition)?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Not only were the power brakes the best America had to offer,the size

of the brake drums and lining was far superior to the rest.Regarding

rear brakes,Super 8 Packards had 14″ drums,30.25 length.V12 Packards had

15″ drums,32.25 length.Duesenberg had 15″ drums,28.75 length.Cadillac

V16 had 15″ drums,29+ length.

Pierce had 16″ drums and 38 lining length.Eights and V12’s both got

the same brakes.In ’33 to ’35 the heaviest production V12’s were about

500 to 700 pounds less than a V16 Cad. or Duesenberg.

Tony Costa

My source on Brakes is Motor’s Handbook pg.122.Weights:P.A.=NADA pg.509.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Roger,

I was having a devil of a time starting my 1912 in the morning on

tours with this evil stuff they’re peddling as gas.I switched to

premium grade,and what a positive change.I can start it on a reasonable

number of cranks.

I realize that the car took about 50 octane(same as Coleman camping

gas),a rapidly burning gas,to fire the 3 to 1 compression,cavernous,

firing chamber.The act of putting a slow burning fuel(premium),should

be going the wrong way.But it works!I throw in Marvel Mystery oil,

also.

I would welcome other peoples experiences along these lines.I know

newer Pierces would be in the 5 to 1 or 6 to 1,range.

Tony Costa

[Author]

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