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The real one has 6 days of bidding left…

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Obvious negatives are: Model A Ford horn button & light switch, no oil filter, no oil temperature regulator (cooler), upholstery pattern. Possible negative: radio mounted in engine compartment (radios and heat don’t get along too well).

Pictures too fuzzy to assess finishes.

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Scott,

I own a 1933 and 1934 (same brakes as 1935), and I can testify that they are the best brakes I have ever experienced on a vintage car.

Bob

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I second Jim’s proposition. As a matter of fact, when I get a request (to [email protected]) from non-club members for parts or cars for sale, I send them to our Emporium Editor, Rick Morrison, and he lists them in the Emporium as a lead.

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Sent 12 diagram by email.

Bob

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8 or 12?

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Hi David,

If you are referring to my red 1934 Convertible Coupe (not sedan), we bought it in Detroit in 2007, and immediaately drove it 600 miles to the the Williamstown MA Meet. After some repairs at John Cislack’s, we put it on the truck for CA, where we’ve put a bunch more miles on it.

Cheers,

Bob

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I like Dick Shappy’s ’09 & ’18 – price about right. I also like the ’36 town car, but price too high.

As much as I love 1933 models, and this convertible, for the asking price of $344K (that you can pay for a very nicely restored V12), I can’t resist the urge, and I’m going to have to nit-pick it (sorry, forgive me):

-Wrong spare covers (two-piece, too big)

-No trim rings on spare wheels

-Wrong left tail light lens

-Wrong running board rubber, and every other rib chrome trim strips missing

-Luggage rack shoud not have chrome strips (trunk sits on other side when extended)

-Wrong rear bumper (from 1242/7 series)

-Wrong windshield wiper motor

-“Pierce” emblem missing on valance above dashboard

-Wrong free-wheeling handle

-Missing “elbow flaps” in rumble seat upho;stery

-Wrong cylinder head (’36 aluminum head)

-Cyl head studs & acorn nuts instead of bolts

-Chrome oil filter, water outlet

-Spark advance cable & oil pressure gauge line not routed properly, extra holes in firewall

-Acorn nuts instead of hex bolts in water jacket

-Nice but questionable upholstery patterns

-No floorboard carpet saver rubber plates

-Nice external paint and body work, but questionable engine and hubcap colors, no wheel stripes

-Wrong rumble seat handle

-Questionable tire size (can’t tell if 7.50 vs 7.00 from pics)

Whew!

It’s obvious a lot of nice work went into this car, and it shows beautifully, but authenticity issues knock the price way down IMHO.

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The 2017 Roster lists 4 1910 Model 36 UU belonging to PAS owners, and 9 1911 models.

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Thanks for reminding us of all the joy that these machines have brought and continue to bring!

Bob

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Hi Blaine,

When moving, the proper way to engage FW (push handle in) is to let the car coast, depress the clutch and let the engine drop back to idle, push the handle in, and let the clutch back out. This can be done at most any speed.

To disengage FW, bring engine rpm up to approx level for speed you are going, push the clutch in, pull the handle out, and slowly engage the clutch for a smooth transition. The closer the engine speed is to proper rpm for car speed, the less of a “clunk” you will hear when pulling the handle out. This is done best at slow speeds. If you don’t want to mess with matching engine speed, just push the handle in before you start out.

You can start out from a standstill with FW either in or out, and use reverse with FW either in or out.

I love FW around town – you only need the clutch for 1st gear, can shift to 2nd and 3rd without the clutch.

When I drive to a hilly area, I just pull the handle to take it out of FW and have engine braking.

(The “normal” position of the handle is “in” toward the dashboard, so it was the designer’s intention to be in FW most of the time.)

Brian – no difference between coasting in neutral or clutch depressed.

I love my FW- just be sure pulling the handle takes it out of FW before going downhill or you’ll cook your brakes.

Cheers,

Bob

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As I stated previously, I have the drawings, and if George makes the sets according to the drawings (don’t know, asked him if he had drawings or wanted a copy, no reply as yet), they will fit Pierce.

Cheers,

Bob

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Great idea, Blaine!

This is a Christmas card with the ’34 from a few years ago.

A Happy Holiday Season and Merry Christmas to all!

Bob & Nancy

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Hi Ken,

Beautiful car!

The first year that the Pierce factory actually built in a radio head into the instrument cluster was 1935. Prior to that, dealers would install them on the steering column, dash, or in one glove-box door. (My ’34 has the Philco “cathedral head”” unit installed in the right-hand glove-box.) I have never seen one on the dash itself in a ’33 – I would be curious to see where the hole is. I can send a picture of the glove-box installation if you like.

Enjoy!

Bob Jacobsen”

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Hi All,

As Dave said, Rohnert Park is not in a direct fire area.

The Doubletree Hotel is alive and well and accepting reservations for the meet. Their Pierce-Arrow reservation banner NOW says: “Our hotel is open and accepting reservations, however services may be limited [presently] given wildfire conditions in our area. We will continue to monitor and provide updates as more information becomes available. Our thoughts are with those impacted by these wildfires.”

Our Meet Committee will be assessing the landscape/tour routes in the next week or two. We will probably shift one or two planned tours from the areas east of Santa Rosa to the vast unaffected areas toward the coast, where the scenery is still beautiful and the roads awesome.

So, we will still have an awesome Meet with great roads, great cars, interesting collections and destinations, wineries, redwoods, and great Pierce-Arrow camaraderie.

I have inquired, but no info yet on our one member in the affected area.

Looking forward to seeing you in California,

Bob Jacobsen

2018 PAS Meet Co-Chair

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Hi Dave,

I’m not going to Hershey, but if the parts are large, you might try Fastenal to deliver them to a close-by Fastenal store. I shipped a rear end hub-to-hub assembly from CA to GA for only $150.

Cheers,

Bob

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Hi Bill,

Have to tell you that I had to shave a little off Steele’s part so it would fit thru hole in interior dash wall…

Bob

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Personally, the taillight bulb should be as bright as the stoplight/backing light for peace of mind, so I’d put 1129’s in both spots.

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…and your helmet and goggles?

(Just sayin’ – at the 2003 Tahoe Meet, we traded rides with the Antique Boat group…)

Cheers!

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Carl,

See PASB 1973 Issue 5 – It is the Long clutch service bulletin.

And also PASB 1976 Issue 5 – states 0.130″ MAX lining thickness (0.125″ nominal).

Cheers,

Bob J.

[Author]

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